In any genre of photography, you’re going to be faced with so-called rules, guidelines, or commandments. Macro photography is no exception.
Consider advice such as, “shoot with a narrow aperture,” or “use a uniform background.” You’ve probably heard those time and time again. In fact, I’ve taught most of them, myself!
While these rules are often useful to beginners, as you become a more advanced photographer, you’ll find times when you need to break all photographic rules. But how do you know when to follow rules, and when to break them?
In this article, I discuss five rules in macro photography, and when they can be discarded. I use examples from my own work so that you are able to see what both following and breaking the rule looks like.
Ultimately, you’ll learn how to break rules in your own macro photography, which will allow you to really take your work to the next level.
Rule 1: Use the Rule of Thirds
This is probably the number one most talked about rule in photography, including macro photography. After all, it has the word “rule” in its name!
The rule of thirds is simple: Divide your viewfinder, screen, or LCD into both vertical and horizontal thirds. This creates a grid. The main elements of your composition—horizon lines, leading lines, faces, eyes—should lie somewhere along these lines.
It’s even better if they fall on one of the “power points” of the grid, the place where the lines intersect.
The place where the stem meets the petals of this tulip lies on a power point.
How does this apply to macro photography?
Often, you’ll be advised to place flower stems along the Rule of Thirds grid. You’ll be told to place flower centers along the power points of the image. The same goes for insects and leaves.
The points of focus should fall on the power points of the composition, you’ll be told.
The center of this dahlia is positioned at one of the power points on the Rule of Thirds grid.
This is often great advice. The Rule of Thirds has been used for centuries and generally results in very pleasing compositions. But sometimes it’s best to break out of this mold and get something a bit edgier, a bit more unique.
When should you break the rule?
Let me tell you about two scenarios when I like to break the Rule of Thirds.
The first instance you should break the rule is when you have a symmetrical subject. Symmetry can be very powerful, and it’s usually best emphasized by putting the point of symmetry (the place around which the image is symmetrical) in the dead center of the image.
The second time you might choose to break the Rule of Thirds is when you want to have a more spacious, off-balance image.
I like to place my main subject at the very top or bottom of the image and leave tons of negative space in the center and at the top. This can produce a minimalist feeling, one that I really love.
Rule 2: Keep it Simple
Another common macro photography rule is to keep your compositions simple.
You should have one point of focus, no distracting elements, a clean and straightforward image. Indeed, this is often wise. Random chaos takes away from the main subject and causes the viewer to become confused.
However, more controlled chaos might be just the thing you need to create a unique image.
I like to use controlled chaos when I’m faced with a complex scene. Many overlapping flowers, for instance, are great subjects for a more chaotic image.
The key is to make sure that there is a main subject that stands out and remains as a point of focus. At the same time, it’s okay to let the background or foreground get a bit messy, as long as it complements the main subject.
The flower on the left creates order in an otherwise messy composition.
For instance, you might have a background with colors that match the main subject. Alternatively, your background might include some flashy lights or brightly colored bokeh.
Just make sure that you keep the eye focused. It’s a fine line between having a complex but controlled image and making a big mess.
Rule 3: Have a Single Point of Focus
Macro photographers are often told to compose with a single point of focus in mind. That means something that the eye can focus on. This rule is especially relevant because I suggested that you use it in the tip above!
Notice how the eye is drawn straight to the center of this peony.
However, while there is a time and a place for this rule, there are also times when it should be broken.
For instance, when faced with a noticeable pattern among leaves or flowers or ferns, it is sometimes better to think less in terms of a point of focus, and more in terms of the image as a whole. Try to emphasize the pattern, and let the eye follow it through the image.
There may not be one point of focus, but the image will remain pleasing.
Rule 4: Have a Uniform Background
Uniform backgrounds are especially emphasized in macro photography. Macro photographers will often shoot on a completely black or pure white background for this very reason.
The rule makes sense – the more uniform the background, the less distracting it is. I use it often myself.
However, this is a rule that I also often break. Why?
To be frank, uniform backgrounds can be boring. More colorful uniform backgrounds are better. I find a uniform gold or orange to be the most pleasing, but sometimes even that isn’t enough.
To take your macro photography to the next level, try looking for complementary backgrounds. In other words, backgrounds that offer a bit of substance while enhancing the main subject.
One trick is to place a second subject just behind the first. Choose an aperture that keeps the second subject slightly out of focus, but yet still recognizable.
Another trick is to shoot towards the sun, so that you get creative flare effects and beautiful highlights.
But be careful: you don’t want to go from uniform to messy. The key word is “complementary.”
Rule 5: Make Sure the Whole Subject is Sharp
I’ve saved the most interesting rule for last. It’s a fairly simple one. Just make sure that your subject is completely sharp.
If you’re shooting a butterfly, make sure that it is sharp from edge to edge. When you’re shooting a flower, make sure that it’s sharp from the tip of the front petal to the edge of the back petal.
If you can’t get the entire subject sharp, the rule advises that you should get as much in focus as possible. This is done by narrowing the aperture. It’s common for macro photographers to shoot in the f/8 and beyond range.
Me? I rarely venture past f/7.1. In this sense, I’m a bit of a rebel.
Of course, I recognize that there is a time and a place for images that are sharp throughout the frame. But that is one particular aesthetic, and there are other looks that you can achieve by widening the aperture and shooting in the f/2.8 to f/7.1 range.
This is how macro photographers produce that “dreamy” feeling in their images.
Use a wide aperture. You work at higher magnifications and manually focus on a recognizable part of your subject; a leaf or the edge of a petal.
Then you shoot and come away with an image that is barely sharp, but for some people is very pleasing.
Conclusion
Macro photography rules (or photographic rules in general) can be very useful, especially for beginners. However, as the saying goes, rules are made to be broken.
By breaking the rules discussed above—that is, by breaking the Rule of Thirds, by creating more complex, chaotic compositions, and by focusing only on a small part of the subject—you’ll come away with more unique images.
Know any other macro photography rules that you like to break? Please share them in the comment area below.
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